Vietnamese Naughtiness in Sharonville: Pho Kimmy. Pho Kimmy Harder.

Many Pho-loving regulars I've seen at area Vietnamese eateries are as proud of their love of the deliciously brothy rice noodle dish as they are of unwittingly mispronouncing it. After all, it's not supposed to sound like the word, "faux." If you are pronouncing it this way, know that you are committing an egregious faux pas. Indeed, the proper way to pronounce this dish is, "fuh." As in, "You're ashamed of yourself for having spent all those years pronouncing 'pho' incorrectly? Fuhgettaboutit."

Now that any offending readers out there are properly educated, let's analyze the name of a certain Vietnamese restaurant in Sharonville, because it certainly begs scrutiny, if not a raised eyebrow and a knowing grin.

The restaurant is called Pho Kimmy. Pho Kimmy, folks. Say it fast. Say it often.

How the owners managed to slip this past those who dole out business licenses is unclear, but bless them a hundred thousand times for having the balls to triumphantly emblazon the front of their restaurant with these two seemingly innocent words.

With the owner's apparently massive set of cajones comes a strong following from mostly Asian diners in a strip mall containing a cluster of Asian-leaning bakeries, small grocers and other eateries. The interior is starkly devoid of anything in the way of decor: there is a long counter in the back, over which hang several LED screens displaying visuals of various menu selections. Tables are bustling with activity, and there was a steady turnover of customers in the time it took for us to eat our lunch.

We stopped by one Saturday afternoon and sat ourselves at a table. One of several wait staff soon arrive with water and menus (they have developed a reputation for being curt, but don't let that put you off). An array of Pho accoutrements are within arm's reach, including Sriracha, oyster sauce, hot chili oil and sets of chopsticks and soup spoons.

Pho Kimmy's menu is among the most comprehensive of any Vietnamese restaurant in Cincinnati. There are nearly a dozen Pho noodle soup variants, ranging in proteins from flank steak, brisket, tendon, tripe, chicken and meatballs to assorted seafood, shrimp and tofu. There are also a number of thin vermicelli noodle dishes and a half dozen Banh Mi options of various meats slapped on the sandwich's signature, toasted, crusty French baguette. Seasonal smoothies, Vietnamese coffee, bubble teas and slushies help wash it all down.

Vietnamese spring rolls

My girlfriend ordered the chicken Bahn Mi variant ($3.95) and what turned out to be a cold-brew Vietnamese coffee (she had anticipated the default to be the traditional hot style, but had failed to specify). I ordered a medium-sized beef Pho ($8.95) and a side of spring rolls with peanut dipping sauce ($3.95).

The spring rolls that arrived would likely be called "summer rolls" elsewhere. These were not fried, but cold, rice-paper variants filled with vermicelli, shrimp, pork and basil. The rolls were plump, fresh and delicious, and the dipping sauce added just the right amount of mouth-popping, rich nuttiness.

Beef pho

Chicken banh mi

My medium-sized bowl of Pho was fairly generous, nearly the size of large bowls I've ordered elsewhere. It was accompanied by the usual plate of basil, cilantro, bean sprouts and jalapeno slices that can be added to the rich beef broth and noodles.

The chicken Banh Mi's warm, crunchy French bread, roasted chicken, julienned carrots and daikon, cilantro, jalapeno and sliced cucumber made for a satisfying crunch. My girlfriend particularly loved her unexpectedly eye-popping cold-brewed Vietnamese coffee, which seemed forty times as intense as any coffee we've ever tasted, enhanced with prodigious amounts of condensed milk and sugary goodness.

Pho Kimmy is solid Vietnamese worth exploring the next time you're near Sharonville. And when you're there, be sure to recite their name loudly and proudly. Make sure they know you are their #1 Pho-king fan.