Chicken Tender Impressions, Part I: CityBird

Does the world need another chicken tender restaurant? Cincinnati entrepreneurs seem to think so. In just a couple short years, we've seen chains like Raising Cane's, Slim Chickens and Tender Towne sweep into...uh...town(e). Now local chefs are cashing in on the craze with two homegrown, "upscale" tender joints: CityBird and Money Chicken.

CityBird, located in Over-the-Rhine, was conceived by Thunderdome Restaurant Group, the same folks who brought us The Eagle, Bakersfield, Currito, Maplewood and Krueger's Tavern. Like the chicken served by its big brother and next-door neighbor, The Eagle, CityBird's chickens led a happy, free roaming, cage free existence full of moonbeams and rainbows before dunked in a brine infused with a super-secret selection of herbs and spices.

The four and six-tender meal combos come with Parmesan and parsley-dusted fries and a choice among five dipping sauces ($7.49-$9.49). Three sandwich variants are featured for $5.99, each sporting three tenders and a unique flavor profile ("CityBird" style with slaw and tangy sauce, lemon thyme ranch and spicy sriracha mayo). A mixed-green salad is available for any roaming vegetarians in your party ($6.99).

Spicy chicken tender sandwich and fries

Unlike its chief local competitor, Money Chicken, CityBird is essentially built for carry-out only, though there are exactly three seats one could theoretically sit at near the window. House made lemonade is offered to drink, as well as a selection of tea, bottled water and canned beverages.

I chose the spicy chicken sandwich variant with "smoky tenders," Green Goddess slaw and sriracha mayo on a toasted bun ($5.99) along with a side of fries ($1.99). The fries looked compelling: they were cut to resemble McDonald's fries, then tossed with heaps of Parmesan cheese and flecks of fresh parsley.

The tenders were juicy and the batter was applied with a light touch, so they weren't particularly crispy. The toasty bun and slaw added a welcome crunch to every bite, and the spicy heat was detectable but not overwhelming. The fries were quite tasty, elevated as they were with the wonderful Parmesan and parsley topping.

For a relatively reasonably priced chicken lunch, CityBird satisfies that tender itch.