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Cincinnati Bites
Lamb Rogan Josh from Dusmesh Indian Restaurant

Top Restaurant Memories of 2020

Posted Thursday, December 31, 2020

We can all recall particularly bad years in our personal lives, but 2020 will likely be the year we collectively regard as the worst in our lifetime. Not since perhaps the World War II era has there been so much stress, tragedy and compromise imposed on the global population.

We endured the lockdowns; we dutifully wore our face masks; we tried not to panic in especially those initial months when it seemed we'd never see another roll of toilet paper or a box of spaghetti on a grocery store shelf again. We either went to work or actively sought it, using our day-to-day challenges as a means to adapt to this very different world. We came together. We tore one another apart. We empathized and we fought.

Every way of life was affected: there was no place to go, nothing to do and far fewer people to do anything with. No travel. No hotels. No movies. No theater. No gyms. No churches. No bars. No restaurants.

Food and drink in 2020 was a particularly contentious topic for most of us. Restaurants and bars struggled to stay afloat as almost no one dared eat inside given the medical and scientific guidelines and the dramatic spikes in Covid-19 cases. Takeout, curbside pickup and delivery were now the means by which we supported restaurants, which will likely continue to be the case through the summer of 2021.

We've seen a number of notable restaurant casualties this year, but we've also seen some hopeful signs of the inevitable resurgence. With a little luck, the only notable aspects of 2021 will be the return to daily life and the 17-year cicadas.

Here are some of our most memorable restaurant experiences of 2020:

Chako

611 Main St.
Covington, KY, 41011
859-609-0166
https://www.chakobakerycafe.com/

Chako is a Japanese bakery in Covington that has made headlines with its take on the Katsu Sando, a crunchy, panko-breaded pork cutlet sandwich with house bread, shredded cabbage and Kewpie mayo-based barbecue sauce. We enjoyed the soup and sandwich combo, which includes a cup of mild and inviting miso soup. In addition to the sandwiches and breads are a tempting selection of Japanese cakes and pastries.

katsu sando sandwich Katsu Sando sandwich and side of miso soup

Le's Pho and Sandwiches

3 E. Court St.
Cincinnati, Ohio 45202
(permanently closed)

Le's was a lunch mainstay for many downtowners over the years. It was among the first Vietnamese restaurants serving up Banh Mi sandwiches and steaming bowls of Pho. Owners Le Ha, Hai Bui and their daughter, Huyen Bui-Gauck, were regular friendly fixtures at the small restaurant. Our last bowl of Pho was served in February, days before they retired from the restaurant business.

pho ga chicken pho Chicken Pho

May Cafe

5 Main St.
Milford, Ohio 45150
513-831-2233
http://maycafemilford.com/

For nearly a decade, May Cafe has served a delightful menu of Italian-inspired sandwiches and soups. Situated in a small building along Milford's Main Street drag, May Cafe and its takeout window have served a frequent and indelible part of our weekend lunch routine during this pandemic. Their scratch-made breads, filling sandwiches and richly flavorsome soups are as satisfying as they are varied and unique. They're also among the most affordable soup and sandwich lunch spots this area has to offer.

May Cafe Prosciutto, mozzarella, artichoke, lettuce and tomato on focaccia

Bao Bun Bowl

(temporarily closed due to Covid-19)
4752 Fields Ertel Rd.
Cincinnati, Ohio 45249
513-275-9988
https://www.baobunbowl.com/

Bao Bun Bowl was the very last restaurant in which we'd dined inside shortly before the Covid-19 lockdowns were imposed. As such, our experience there was one of only two examples we have of a normal dining experience in 2020. As the restaurant's name suggests, Bao Bun Bowl specializes in the Chinese steamed buns known as "Bao," which are typically filled with a pork or veggie mixture. Bao Bun Bowl also showcases hand-pulled noodles, which can be enjoyed in several entrees and soup bowls.

Bao Bun Bowl pulled noodles Beef soup with hand-pulled noodles

Pepp & Dolores

1501 Vine Street
Cincinnati, OH 45202
513-419-1820
https://www.peppanddolores.com/

Pepp & Dolores is the latest restaurant from Thunderdome Group, which also brought Cincinnati the Eagle, Maplewood, Krueger's Tavern, CityBird and the Currito chain. The name pays homage to the owners' Italian grandparents, offering stick-to-your-ribs pasta, panini and contorni (side dishes). We got two very filling meatball and Italian sandwiches for curbside pickup to take home and accompany my girlfriend's homemade cauliflower and red pepper chowder. Each sandwich came with a round, complimentary Lazzaroni amaretti cookie.

Pepp and Dolores sandwich Meatball sandwich with Lazzaroni cookie and our soup

Banh Lao & Thai

7340 Kenwood Rd
Cincinnati, OH 45236
513-954-5267
https://www.banhlaothai.com/

Banh Lao & Thai opened this year, replacing the former Bamboo Kitchen in the Kenwood Road strip mall across from Wendy's and Graeter's. While most Thai food fans will find many familiar items on the restaurant's menu, those looking for more distinctive fare will particularly enjoy their Laos specialities. Laab (also known as Larb), is the Laos national dish, a spicy, herby, refreshing and filling minced beef salad. A minced chicken version is also available, along with Thom Kem, a caramelized pork stew, and Khao Poon, a rice vermicelli soup with a chicken, pork, curry and coconut base made popular throughout Southeast Asia.

Banh Lao Thai Laab Beef Laab (also known as Larb)

Rich's Proper Food & Drink

701 Madison Ave.
Covington, Kentucky 41011
859-415-0069
http://richsproper.com/

Rich's is a corner restaurant taking up space in the Covington space sporting the historic Rich's Gruen Watches sign, from which it takes its name. The food focuses on American pub fare with a slight emphasis on Southern, Creole and Cajun items, including shrimp & grits, jambalaya and oysters. A crispy hot honey chicken sandwich and pork banh mi po' boy are unique variants worth exploring. Rich's jambalaya with chicken, smoky andoille sausage and country ham was so delicious that it inspired us to explore making our own version at home.

Jambalaya Jambalaya and garlic bread

Lumpy's Cafe

20 S Foote St
Cambridge City, IN 47327
765-478-6510
https://www.facebook.com/Lumpyscafe/

With air travel being out of the question this year, we opted for several short road trips, including a visit to Cambridge City, Indiana. While we found the area filled with quaint, small-town charm, our main goal of the visit was to experience the ridiculously-sized pork tenderloin sandwich that Indiana --and in particular this cafe-- is known for. And Lumpy's Cafe delivered: the sandwich was reminiscient of a German schnitizel, the breaded pork pounded out flat, deep fried, then placed on a bun far too small to handle more than a small percentage of the meat's total mass. The sandwich was crispy, salty, meaty and as satisfying and indulgent as it was unhealthy.

pork tenderloin Pork tenderloin sandwich and fries

Fifty West Burger Bar

7605 Wooster Pike
Cincinnati, OH 45227
513-834-8789
https://fiftywestbrew.com/burger-bar/

Fifty West's Burger Bar in Mariemont hearkens back to the days when chowing down on a double cheeseburger, crinkle-cut fries and a milkshake seemed a relatively guilt-free endeavor. At $10 and $2.50, respectively, the burgers and fries are a bit more expensive these days, but no less satisfying, served in cute little paper containers embossed with the Fifty West logo and its iconic Volksagen bus.

burger and fries Double cheeseburger and fries

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