A Mexican Hole-in-the-Wall in Kenwood: Chilero

We've all heard the proverb, "Don't judge a book by its cover." Chilero, a Mexican restaurant in Kenwood mainly focusing on take-out orders, might be the best example I've seen in years.

Very little about the restaurant's exterior hints of an active eatery. For at least a decade, the former KFC building had stood empty and virtually derelict. And even now that it's cleaned up and occupied, only a small wooden sign sporting the Chilero logo hints of the bustling activity within.

It's Chilero, Dr. Sohi!

As of this writing*, the large KFC sign is still covered up with a cheesy and completely irrelevant "Dr. Paul Sohi for State Representative" political ad. Dr. Sohi no doubt owns the building and, hopefully, will realize it might be in his best interest as a real estate investor to swap said sign with one describing the tenant now occupying the space.

Given how historically dangerous and difficult it is to navigate the building's tiny parking lot coupled with the menacing Kenwood Road traffic and the aforementioned super unhelpfully non-descript business sign, I held very low expectations for Chilero. I mean, really, how good could this place be? Would it truly be worth the effort?

In a word, YES!

As one might expect, not much of the layout inside has changed since its KFC days. It's the same front counter and same tiny front space that permits only four tables and four groups of people to eat inside. Otherwise, patrons are encouraged to get their orders to go.

Chilero's two-sided menu is surprisingly ambitious and diverse, with items catering to both authentic Mexican and Tex-Mex style entrees. Tacos ($2.75), burritos ($8.99), quesadillas ($4.99), tortas ($6.99) and tostadas ($3.99 - $5.29) are prominently featured on one side. The soft corn-shelled tacos can be served traditionally with onions and cilantro or Tex-Mex style with cilantro, tomatoes, lettuce, onions, cotija cheese and sour cream. Proteins include steak, pork, chicken and chorizo as well as tilapia and shrimp options for at least the tostadas.

Steak, pork and chorizo tacos

Chicken and chorizo tacos, Tex-Mex style

The other side of the menu focuses on Mexican platters ranging in price from $6.99 - $12.99, mostly served with sides of refried beans and yellow rice. Enchiladas, pork ribs, chilaquiles and grilled meat plates are key highlights.

We focused on Chilero's tacos during our first visit, ordering a couple rounds of chorizo, chicken, steak and pork tacos in both the traditional and Tex-Mex styles. The hearty, sturdy house-made corn tortillas really held up well to the toppings, each arriving with a slice of lime and a side garnish of grilled onions and half a grilled jalapeno slice.

Chilero offers two sauces that they describe as "mild" and "hot," but thankfully, both the green tomatillo and smoky red chili sauces are nicely and uniquely spiced. Similar to the house-made sauces at La Mexicana and other taquerias, these taste fresh and invigorating.

The tacos themselves were some of the better ones we've enjoyed in town. In a subsequent visits, I also liked the very delicious but slightly pricey burrito, which was wrapped and then topped with melted cotija cheese, then sliced into two large, manageable halves. Their tortas, with wonderful "Mexican bread" (likely of the telera variety), are very large and very reasonably priced at $6.99.

Chilero is the perfect example of a great establishment whose sole flaw lies in its advertising. Lets set aside your 2018 run as an Ohio State representative, Dr. Sohi. Tell us more about the tacos!

*UPDATE: Chilero has replaced the sign! Hooray!

*ANOTHER UPDATE: Chilero's sign was destroyed! Boo!

New Chilero sign!